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Journey to the grave site of The Baal Shem Tov
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| by Tzvi Meir
Cohn |
| Executive
Director, Baal Shem Tov Foundation |
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| I was profoundly inspired while visiting the grave site of
Israel Baal Shem Tov, whose 300th birthday is this September 9th (Chai Elul).
On August 16th, I returned from a 12 day trip to Russia and Ukraine with my not
quite 15 year old travel companion/son and twelve Chassidim from Israel.
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| As the doors were secured on the Russian Aeroflot plane, I
shivered with the realization of a long awaited dream come true. We joined the
12 bearded Chassidim wearing their customary black garb in Moscow and we danced
celebrating Jewish Victory at Lenin's tomb in Red Square. Our travels to the
grave sites of the Baal Shem Tov and all the Rebbes in the Chabad lineage from
the Altar Rebbe Schneur Zalman, the author of the Tanya, to the fifth Lubavich
Rebbe Rashab buried in the Soviet Union (The last two Lubavitch Rebbes are
buried in New York). In total, we drove over 1500 miles through Russia and
Ukraine by bus, sometimes day and night sleeping in contorted positions on our
seats. We visited a number of different Jewish communities each with its own
story. For me, the highlight of the trip was standing at the grave of the Baal
Shem Tov. |
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| From Kiev, its about four hours to Berditchiv where there is a
charming old shule with an attached guest house. Rav Shlomo Breuer and his
Rebbetzyn were there to greet us with big smiles and a five course traditional
Jewish dinner served with unflinching hospitality at 2:00 a.m. |
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| The next morning, after a great shower and both hot and cold
Mikvehs, we went to daven in a beautiful shule. As time went on, more and more
beggars came into the shule. The word was out that the Pilgrims had arrived.
After davening, we all gave about $200 to Rabbi Minkoweicz (a member of our
group) to distribute among the beggars. They crowded around him trying to get
seconds. Then, after getting Tzedeka, they approached each of us individually
to try and get more. Watching them handle us, I decided that I'm definitely not
aggressive enough in my Patent Law practice. Then as a "learning experience", I
gave DMM $10 in singles to distribute among the beggars. They immediately
started pushing towards him. I could barely see him to take a photo. All I
could hear him say was "Don't touch". |
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| Late in the morning we
were off to Mezibush (170 km), where the Holy Baal Shem Tov is buried. After a
three-hour ride, we arrived in Mezibush. The day was bright blue with
sculptured clouds scattered through the sky. By this time, we were all so
excited. We found a few young boys that ran up ahead of the bus on a dirt road
to show us the location of the Baal Shem Tov's Grave Site. At the top of a
hill, we found a new synagogue/guest house next to the old cemetery with the
Ohel (building) containing the Baal Shem Tov's grave. |
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| The new synagogue/guest house, although not completed at that
time, was very beautiful and contained a Mikveh, several rooms to sleep,
meeting rooms, a Bet Midrash and a shule. The views from the synagogue/guest
house stretched out over a picturesque valley toward the back and along one
side. On the other side of the house, the old cemetery with the Ohel (a small
red brick building), sat nestled among some trees. |
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| As we entered the cemetery, we saw a young Lubavitch woman
SLK, from our old neighborhood standing at the front door of the Ohel. She was
surprised to see us and we reminisced how she had babysat for DMM when he was a
baby. Once inside the Ohel, we said the customary prayers and offered our
request for blessings written on a piece of paper. Then we tore up the paper
and threw the torn pieces onto the grave, as is the custom. Our Rabbi, Rav
Sholom Ber Volpo, delivered a sermon on Torah. |
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| Then, we sang 8 or 9
niggunim (songs without words) originated by each of the Rabbis leading to and
including the seven Lubavitch Rebbes. Then, I sang my original composition, "The Baal Shem Tov Blues"
accompanied by my guitar. This was a magical moment. |
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| Just outside the cemetery,
there was a man selling Russian styled fur hats, a few fox skins and some other
souvenirs. We purchased two hats and a fox skin. Both the hats and the fox skin
smelled as if they had only just recently been removed from their owners.
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| Then, we went walked down a long, dirt road towards the center
of Mezibush and to a well bubbling up the legendary Baal Shem Tov water that
has the power of healing. |
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| Legend has it that the Baal Shem was with his students and they
couldn't find water to wash their hands before praying Mincha (afternoon
prayer). The Baal Shem struck the ground three times with his walking stick and
the water miraculously bubbled out. Some of us, including DMM and me, jumped
into the well to take a Mikveh in the Baal Shem Tov water. Also, we collected
some of the legendary Baal Shem Tov water and carried it home. |
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| By late afternoon, we were off to visit the grave sites of the
Maggid of Mezritch and his students, Reb Zushe and Rabbi Aaron HaCohan, a few
hours away, in Annapole. |
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